For decades, Tabis have captivated and divided members of the fashion community and beyond, sparking strong reactions between admiration and perplexity. They command the attention of everyone in the room, sparking a wave of questions ranging from, “Where can I buy those!?” to “Why are you wearing camel shoes?” (Questions I have personally received more than once). They are an IYKYK type of piece.
There are multiple opinions on Tabis within the fashion community, with the prevailing belief that they instantly elevate the look of any outfit. And, of course, a common detestation for them outside the fashion community as is with many other statement pieces.
What many do not know is-–hold my hand-–Tabis are not a new concept. In fact, they have been around since the 15th century. Originating in China and Japan as a sock-like shoe designed to increase stability and mobility with the split toe design. Tabis were originally designed for athletic movement and meant to reduce foot pain. They were initially reserved for the high class and worn on special occasions before eventually becoming a staple for workers.

Vintage workwear concepts have been recycled and revived throughout history and Tabis are another example of this cyclical evolution. There are many modern variations and designs of Tabis that are accessible today. You most likely recognize them from the legendary fashion house, Margiela. Martin was inspired by the concept after a trip to Japan in search of a look that portrayed the illusion of a foot resting on a heel. Out of that came the Maison Margiela Tabis, launched in 1989. According to the Maison Margiela website, the Tabi design “captures the avant-garde and insubordinate spirit of the Maison and exists as a heritage classic, continually explored through each collection.”
It is incredibly difficult for a fashion designer to do something entirely new because fashion is a constant cycle. Maison Margiela managed to design a collection of shoes that felt fresh in 1989. It shook the fashion industry then and continues to do so today.

“Margiela used the body as another fabric to play with.”

For Maison Margiela’s SS 1990 show, Maison would incorporate the children of a low income Neighborhood outside of Paris to have these kids create not only all of the invites hand done in crayon and marker. He also had them participating alongside the models in a way fashion had never seen before. The show was done on a run down playground in the outskirts of Paris, the seating plan was first come, first serve; the rows were filled with local kids; the models were stumbling; the runway was uneven. But as history shows, it would be one of the most iconic shows in fashion history.
“I always thought fashion was a bit superficial, but this show changed everything for me.” -Raf Simons
I bought my pair of Tabis, along with other essential pieces, to be louder and more unique with my style. Doing so has helped me grow in my personal style confidence. I get tired of hiding behind safe choices and uniformity and feel my most confident when I express my individuality. With my Tabis, I feel like I can put together a more unique outfit than usual, and I find it so beautiful and electrifying wearing something that evokes emotions and reactions from other people around me.
While this shoe is clearly becoming more popular or may even be considered “mainstream” to some, it will continue to be a topic with multiple opinions and perspectives. One thing is undeniable, the design of Tabis will always be an icon in all of fashion history.
More on Tabis!
https://www.ssense.com/en-us/editorial/fashion/the-uncanny-appeal-of-margielas-tabi-boots
https://www.vogue.com/article/margiela-tabi-boots-history
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